St. Petersburg: Revival Beyond the Beach

Published by julia | Filed under Miscellaneous, Shout Outs

LONG known as little more than a cheaper spring-break alternative and a retirement capital, St. Petersburg has idled for decades in obscurity, frequented mostly by half-hearted tourists rummaging through thrift stores or admiring its hushed, Jazz Age architecture.

But, in recent years, the old beach resort has experienced a kind of cultural revival, spurred by new condos and the resuscitation of historic hotels, much of it centered around downtown. Elders idling on park benches have been replaced by artists and young professionals gathering at cafes and restaurants, lulled by the breeze that made St. Pete so popular to begin with.

Anchoring the downtown scene is the newly renovated Ponce de Leon Hotel and its buzzing restaurant Ceviche (10 Beach Drive; 727-209-2302; www.ceviche.com). On most nights, this sultry Spanish restaurant draws an eclectic crowd of yuppies, suburbanites and salonistas (there are several beauty schools nearby), who sip mojitos and nibble on tapas. Popular dishes include fresh anchovies with a tomato and cilantro relish ($7.50), and red pepper stuffed with veal and chorizo ($7). After dinner, patrons sneak downstairs to hear live salsa.

Another trendy lounge is the Independent (29 Third Street N; 727-820-9514; www.independentbeer.com), a candlelit beer hall with a retractable glass facade that serves exotic imports like a Belgian Val-Dieu Triple ($11) and draws a youthful crowd ranging from elaborately tattooed music types to architects in seersucker suits, ties undone.

An even more eclectic crowd gathers at Studio@620 (620 First Avenue S; 727-895-6620; www.studio620.org), an gallery and cultural center that generates local buzz through diverse programming. Recent events included a performance of Sam Shepard’s one-act play “Killer’s Head,” a developing-world film series and a burlesque show. Bob Devin Jones, a co-director, said that the mix brings out “granny, her nephew and even his gay cousin down the street.”

The energy has spilled over into the daytime, with indie coffee shops, waterfront parks and design stores. Mesh (689 Central Avenue; 727-898-6374; www.meshshowroom.com), a design firm and retail store, sells high-end contemporary furniture, including a walnut buffet ($4,000) designed by the owners.

Nearby is Kahwa Coffee (475 Second Street N; 727-823-4700; www.kahwacoffee.com), a French cafe with a bright, minimalist interior, which opened in March and anchors a new condo complex. “When I was younger, I couldn’t wait to leave St. Pete,” said Sarah Perrier, 32, who moved back from Philadelphia to help open Kahwa. “Everything in this neighborhood shut down at 5 o’clock. At night it was just shady.”

But her husband, Raphael, convinced her that it was an up-and-coming spot. St. Petersburg is ripe for a renaissance, said Mr. Perrier, a native of Léon, France. “Paris is done, Miami is done,” he said. “ St. Pete is wide open.”

By Paul Reyes, NYT